NEW: Chappaqua Farmers Market Saturday 8:30 to 1:30 at the Train Station: Soup’s On!

October 14, 2011
by Pascale LeDraoulec

• Yoga by Breathe 8:30-9:30
• Halloween Costume Swap 8:30-1:30
• Cooking Demo Pat Cohen of Nutritional Spirit 10:45-12:45
• Potting Project for Kids 10:30-12:30 (Girl Scout Troop 2757)
• Cornell Cooperative Extension 8:30-1:30
• Music by TJay 10:30-12:30

How did I work as a restaurant critic in NYC for five years and not gain 400 pounds???

Well, for starters, I only “tasted” the dishes I ordered and let my guests finish them. I tried to limit myself to one piece of bread per restaurant.  And every month I’d make a vat of “restaurant critic soup” which I’d eat for three days straight.
I got the advice from a fellow restaurant critic in San Francisco who credited this soup for helping her keep her girlish figure despite eating out 8-10 times a week.

I no longer review restaurants (and never had a girlish figure), but every year, around this time, I get a hankering for that soup. Now that I make it almost entirely with ingredients from the farmers market, it tastes much more like a reward than a bowl of culinary penance.

This week, with the heater coming on in the morning and a busy week of deadlines and working from home, I decided to make a giant batch which I’ve been enjoying for lunch and dinner every single day. It’s as delicious as it is righteous.
I’m not going to give you a recipe because there really isn’t one.  It’s basically a free for all with only a few rules that you MUST follow.

Start by sauteeing some leeks (or shallots or onions) in a little olive oil in your favorite and roomiest soup pot. (HEADS UP: Demetra Kontoulis is back at the market with her amazing olive oil next week).

Who remembers “Stone Soup”?

Then fill it 3/4 of the way with water (that’s RULE #1).  If you want something richer use homemade or store-bought stock. 

Dump in whichever root vegetables you’ve got handy. Just make sure you’ve cut them up in pieces that are roughly the same size so they cook evenly.  I put in some of those smaller turnips that have been turning up at market, some sweet potatoes, parsnips and “white” carrots from Madura Farms.

If you’re a restaurant critic, you don’t want to put any POTATOES in there at all (RULE #2). But if you’re not, go right ahead and throw in small handful of Yukon golds. Morgiewicz Produce has some beauties. The truth is, this soup is so hearty you’re not going to miss the starch.

About 15 minutes after the soup’s been simmering, add some rough chopped tomatoes. In the winter, add a large can of San Marzano diced tomatoes. Oh and a couple bay leaves, some peppercorns and/or a bouquet garni if you’re feeling inspired. Or none of the above.

Let the soup simmer for about an hour or more…There’ s really no rush and your house will smell so good you’ll want to leave it on as long as possible.

Once the soup has been cooking for a while…add greens: CABBAGE if you eat out for a living. Lots and lots of shredded cabbage (that’s RULE #3). Toss in a fair amount - it will cook up quickly in the simmering soup.

This week instead of cabbage, I put in all the leafy greens I got at the market last Saturday: Swiss chard and Tuscan kale (two bunches!) all cut up in ribbons.

You must be wondering how I could eat this soup twice a day for a week and not get bored.

Every day I add something new to give it a new twist. I portion some out into a smaller pot and add either cannellini, garbanzo or fresh green beans, one day. Sometimes I’ll add Asian spices with some tofu or, a bunch of gourmet mushrooms from Madura Farms (which stay fresh much longer if you keep them in a brown paper bag in your crisper!). Today, I added some market mint chutney from Bombay Emerald (Sriracha sauce works well, too! so does grated Parmesan cheese).  For my girls, I sometimes add cooked rice or noodles or some shredded chicken. (for the record, they do not eat it all week).

It’s a great way to make room in your refrigerator, and to ready yourself for those winter stews and sauces to come…
(Did you know that Roaming Angus now has pork belly?)

I’m sure Pat Cohen would heartily approve of this critic’s soup. Cohen is a health counselor from North Salem who firmly believes that eating is good for the planet—and for our bodies. From 10:45 a.m. to 12:45 p.m. she will be cooking up a dish she calls “Sizzling Stir Fry” using mostly market ingredients. Says Cohen:  “My mission is to raise awareness about how fresh, nutritionally packed food, along with healthy lifestyle choices, will enhance your life.”

A bouquet of market flowers never fails to enhance my life. Make sure to pick up a bouquet this week - it’s last call of the season for fresh local blossoms!

TJay