Restaurant Review: The Moderne Barn in Armonk is casual, comfortable, elegant and affordable

July 30, 2010
by Maryellen Phelan

I spent a delightful Tuesday evening dining with friends at the Moderne Barn restaurant, the latest creation of renowned restaurateur, John Livano and his family, Nick, Bill and Corina.

It was a total dining experience. We were titillated from the moment we entered the space. The room, designed by Kim Nathanson, is stunning. Floor to ceiling windows sparkle the length of the front and rear wall areas. Thirty-foot walnut, barrel, vaulted ceilings serve as a backdrop for the elaborate, modern crystal and steel chandeliers.

There are two levels of dining areas with varied seating configurations including tables, round booths, bar tables and seats at a very long seductive bar. Dining outside is available also. We were seated on the balcony level overlooking the expansive main area and directly across from the catwalk over the bar that houses the “wine cellar.”

Our party of four included two of Jewish heritage and two of Irish heritage, middle-aged, with different food requirements and appetites. (The dining crowd, for the most part, was young, stylish and lively.)

The menu: Varied, yet not overwhelming

The menu is varied and interesting, but not overwhelming. For those looking for a simple dinner, Wagyu Beef hot dogs and a Barn Burger as well as dinner salads are offered. Executive Chef, Ethan Kostbar, formerly of Gramercy Tavern, delivers some special, yet light offerings. We enjoyed six appetizers, four main courses, four desserts and coffee and tea. We had two different wines by the glass, a nice California Chardonnay and an Italian Ramitello, both very good selections by the wine staff. (The wine list and beer offerings are extensive. The lists and prices can be found online.)

Our appetizers included a black mission fig flat bread with prosciutto and goat cheese, which was very tasty; heirloom tomatoes with house-made mozzarella and white balsamic dressing, which was delicious, especially the perfect heirloom tomatoes. We also enjoyed watermelon tomato gazpacho soup, which was very refreshing and balanced; and the veal shank marrow, pureed and baked with breadcrumbs and served with red cabbage compote was outstanding. The grilled calamari steak with tomatoes and lemon basil was excellent; and matzo ball soup, with celery, carrots and parsley, was fresh and flavorful; dare I say, better than Mom’s!

The appetizers whetted our desire for more novel flavor combinations. Our main courses included Day Boat Scallops in a mushroom cream sauce with peas and dill dumplings; the sauce was thicker than anticipated, but overall a tasty choice. The Free Bird Chicken with carrots, peas, corn, artichokes and mushrooms was good, but the vegetables were delicious. The Wild Striped Bass with zucchini, yellow squash, eggplant tomatoes and spinach was light and very savory. And the ricotta gnocchi in a tomato sauce was very satisfying and delectable. We enjoyed our ample glasses of wine throughout the meal.

Satiated, yet tempted by the desserts, we forged ahead, and consumed every bite. We had a lemon torte with honey yogurt cream, a vanilla bean cheesecake, a valhrona chocolate torte and the best ever, three ways crème brulee.

Our waitress, Charlotte, was very solicitous and friendly.

We all agreed that the Moderne’s strong suits are the appetizers, the scrumptious, plentiful vegetables, which are an integral part of each dish, and the desserts. Our bill with tax was $111 per couple exclusive of two of the appetizers, which were gratis and exclusive of tip. I definitely recommend The Moderne Barn for a fun, exciting and tasty night out!

Of note: The Moderne Barn is open seven days a week for dinner. Lunch will be served starting the third week of September. There is an inside elevator to the balcony level, a large parking area in the back and attractive restrooms. Charlotte advised us that although reservations are recommended, walk-ins do get seated Sunday through Thursday. The website is modernebarn.com.

Maryellen Phelan is a 50-year resident of Westchester County, a homebuilder and city planner, who is married with grown children. She is a voracious reader who likes to travel, cook and eat out.